Tuesday, November 27, 2012

Bald is Beautiful ..... or is it? Some timely information on SEASONAL HAIR LOSS

Humans tend to shed between 50 to 100 hairs everyday - a direct result of hair growth phases. A typical strand of hair has a life cycle of between 24 and 72 months(2 -6 years) during which time it will grow normally. However, around 10% of a persons hair may be in a "resting" phase, known as Telogen, at which point, the hair can fall out.

Research suggests that women experience slightly higher rates of Telogen during the month of July, which would have the affected hairs falling out around 100 days later, in mid October or November - hence Seasonal Hair Loss.In the Spring and Summer, sun rays increase the secretion of hormones that regulate the hairs growth, similar to how plants grow. Accelerated growth during the hottest months, then gradual slowing, and then a greater loss for hair that has reached the end of it's life cycle.It typically lasts between 4 to 6 weeks and the majority of people never really notice it. In others however, it can result in a hair loss that is 3 to 4 times greater than the rest of year - which is understandably distressing.

This article is written most specifically for women, but my research has shown that many men suffer form Seasonal Hair Loss as well. Sadly - most doctors are at a loss and many have never heard of Seasonal Hair Loss.

Should it be treated? It all depends on the state of your hair. If your hair was already losing it's density prior to the seasons changing then you should strongly consider a support program.

My go to combo has been Revita Shampoo by www.dslaboratories.com/revita/about.php
combined with Viviscal Extra Strength Supplements www.viviscal.com ( I recommend Amazon for Viviscal ) The DSLaboratories products need some education so I recommend buying them from a hairstylist who has been educated on how to use and recommend them as well as having used the product on themselves or clients.

I am currently trying out a new product : Hair Tonic by O'Right www.hairoright.com - I just started using it , so the jury is still out. Several organic colorists have recommended it - so I have high hopes. The only downside is they use a synthetic fragrance in it - which for most people will be a pleasant experience. For Asthmatics - not so much. I also do not like the atomizer - I have been spraying it on a q -tip to get more controlled application and to use less product.
Some really great things to know about O'Right : They are a GMP certified Green factory . They use solar, wind and recycled water to make their manufacturing practices sustainable. They use ECOCERT ingredients. Their packaging is biodegradable and is certified non toxic. They have seeds in their packaging which grow trees and flowers! I really love the whole concept and I am hopeful that I will love the product.


 Before shampooing, on hair that has not been washed for at least 3 days:

With your fingers spread, lay a flat hand directly on the skin of your scalp. Tightly close your fingers together and slide them up from the roots through the ends. Put the collected hair on a piece of paper. Repeat the action at least 5 times so as to cover the entire head ( less if you have a small head).

Fewer than 10 hairs: Normal hair loss

From 10 to 15 hairs : You are likely starting the Seasonal Hair Loss process. You can be proactive and start a vitamin regime such as Viviscal,, Maxi Hair or BioSil.

More than 15 hairs : There is hair loss taking place. Consider using Revita shampoo, RS treatment, Vitamins,scalp treatments or the entire combo.

A DISCLAIMER: First I am not a doctor or a nutritionist - this is hairstylist advice. Second - many of you do not brush your hair in between shampoos - you will have an extraordinary amount of hair shed if this is the case. You need to do a controlled assessment, therefore brush your hair twice a day at least.

More details and what you can do ..................................................................................

Androgenic Alopecia or Female Pattern Hairloss (FPH) :

  Often an overall thinning - two hairs where five used to be, rather than a bald area on top of the head like men. Temporary conditions such as pregnancy, medication, diet or stress can cause hair thinning, but 70 % of women who experience this condition can attribute it to Androgenic Alopecia (FPH).
The signs and symptoms of FPH are general thinning of hair over the top of the head and moderate loss of hair on the crown or hairline. Within follicles affected by FPH, biologically active testosterone is connected by an enzyme into a much more potent hormone derivative called "Dihydrotestosterone".
It is this powerful hormone which inhibits the metabolism of the forming genetically pre-disposed hair cells, resulting in the gradual process of finer, weaker hairs, as the follicle continues to shrink. Eventually these hair follicles die - resulting in irreversible baldness( Minoxidil has been proven to reverse some of this).
 Other contributing factors to FPH : a combination of age and heredity affects the hormones and causes certain hair follicles to get smaller and smaller. This prevents the hair form fulfilling its regular growth process. the hair growth cycle is reduced causing each hair to become finer and shorter with each growth cycle.
 Hormonal changes: while a woman is pregnant and hormonal changes are occurring, more hair follicles enter the growth phase than normal. About 2 to 3 months after childbirth, the normal hair cycle returns and many hairs re enter the resting phase which causes excessive shedding to occur. This is usually a temporary condition, and typically hair returns to its normal growth patterns after 6 months. If it does not, the woman may be experiencing FPH which was masked by childbirth.

Diffuse Hair Loss

Most frequently seen in women, it involves an increased rate of hair fall and subsequent thinning from all over the scalp. In these cases a detailed clinical history should be taken. Diet should be checked for adequate intake of nutrients. Clinical investigations should be made for thyroid, haemoglobin, and hormonal problems. Stress may also be a contributing factor.

Telogen Effluvium

 Please go to www.belgraviacentre.com/telogeneffluvium

My sources:www.centre-clauderer.com
                    and my own personal experience with hair loss and seasonal shed - including working with many clients over the years who have suffered various forms of hair loss.

Thursday, November 22, 2012

I'm in a new chair ....... temporarily

So - I had to leave my cozy home of the last 13 years. It was a hard decision because I am like a cat and I despise drastic change. But the Universe had other plans for me and I would rather listen than have it done for me :)

My good friend and fellow hairstylist Wendi Adams of Maxfields Hair Color Group and the brains behind Color Guru's was kind enough to let me invade her studio at Salon Republic for a couple of months while I embark on the craziest but most awesome journey of my career!!

I have decided to open my own hair studio/salon/Atelier/art gallery/building full of awesome! Why would I do such a thing?? Well - no one was offering the kind of space that I needed - in my desired geographic location - that would not require me to jack my service prices up by 200% - where I would not die from chemical asphyxiation. Simple solution - field of dreams style - build it and they will come.

My concept is simple - no ammonia, no formaldehyde, no thio, no lye. Period. It can be done and your hair will be grateful . Your lungs will no longer cry for mercy and your eyes will no longer burn or itch.

There will be beautiful art/ photographs on the walls - from local peeps. This will change out every 8 weeks or so - there will be gallery openings to attend, a garden seating area of sorts and a running Mah Jong game or maybe Mexican Train. Treats will be ever present and there will be tea and coffee.

It will be small - it will always be a place to come hang out - it will be happy and we will recycle.

When will this be happening? I am aiming for January - but it could be February.

For now you can find me doing my low emission thang at Wendi's : Salon Republic (upstairs) 11239 Ventura Blvd Studio City 91604 in Studio 36 which is in the back right corner of the building - you come in the doors - head to the end of the hall turn right and then make a sharp left and into the studio. Marshalls is the big store in the shopping center - Vineland and Tujunga are the cross streets - there is ample free parking underground - the best Japanese Ramen at the stairs - and if you get there before 9am or after 5pm text me for the door code.

Thursday, May 10, 2012

Crown WaterFall Braid

 Here is a picture of Crown Waterfall braid I did yesterday - I also added a couple of Pink Ombre Extensions to her hair. She likes to wear her hair down after is has been blown out so this was a great solution to keep her hair out of her way for work later that day without putting it all up.
The multi shades of blonde made the waterfall pieces more striking. I find that having the hair smooth , especially if you have a client that gets fuzzy in the heat of the day, makes these braids easier to do. I used Lanza Smoother as a blow out creme and then I used a small amount of hairdress to keep the pieces tidy. I used Enjoy Molding Paste on this client. If you want to do a double row, I think drying the hair using it's natural texture is better - the rows are not as neat and it gives a more messy romatic feel the braids. Lots of requests on this braid -

Have a Happy Hair Day!!

Saturday, April 28, 2012

Friday, April 27, 2012

Waterfall Braids

Photo taken from : http://capricho.abril.com.br/blogs/soscabelos/diy-waterfall-braid-e-a-nova-mania

A lot of you have been asking me how to do a Waterfall Braid and I kept thinking I would be able to shoot a tutorial in the salon to show you how it's done. I have been so busy that it has not happened so I decided the next best is to share my favorite braiding tutorial with you from YOU TUBE.

Enjoy! And Happy Braiding! I would love to hear from you and see pictures of your waterfall braids!

A couple of tips - it is easier to try out new braiding techniques on hair that is one or two days dirty and I have also been told that trying it out on straightened hair is easier the first few times than it is on curly hair.

Saturday, March 24, 2012

Making flowers out of hair

This is a lost art! When I decided to take on a little side project , I thought how hard could it be?

A better question would be how hard will it be to get research materials that are relevant?

Just the dying of the hair has been challenging and believe me, I am not going to give up my hard earned secrets!

Back in Victorian times people uses hair to create jewelry and decorative items to remember a loved one, commonly known as Memento Mori , which means "remember your mortality". Hair art was considered ladies fancy work . It seems to have been based on Scandinavian straw art.

Well, I have discovered that I'm going to have to beat my own drum and make it up as I go along using techniques from 1875 and some other cool tid bits I have picked up in my research.

I can't show you but one piece I have completed until the shoot is done. This is a rose made out of three bundles of loose hair, I used vegetable dye and also a non ammoniated permanent dye.

Monday, February 6, 2012

ISSE International Hair Show 2012

The Hair Show was kind of awesome this year. I don't go very often - usually right around the time the when the World Congress show will be happening - which is this year in Milan, Italy. Want to go - but the Magic 8 Ball says it's unlikely.

I went for the Vendors on Saturday and then for a class and the platform work on Monday. Sunday I had a previously scheduled class, plus it is sooooo busy, one can barely walk from booth to booth without getting stepped on.

The hot trends were multi colored hair, done with extensions mostly, lots of braids and every conceivable form of curling tool imaginable. Airbrush tanning and make up were also very hot. Many models were dressed up like Moulin Rouge style dolls . A visual extraveganza.

The class I took was with Damien Carney, who is the Artistic Director for Joico. He was teaching a class about how to make the most of your entry into NAHA(North American Hairstylist Awards). Awesome class, he is an incredible talent and a phenomenal educator. I'm brimmimg with ideas for an entry!!

Check out the Tiger


Damien Carney

Amazing color by Sue Pemberton of Joico

Beautiful Brunettes

Hair Extensions

Fiber clip in color bangs and strands

Twiddle Stics and the Wonderstyler

The Bi Rod clipless iron for S waves

Body Up Pro detachable brushes for Mac daddy Blow outs

4 sizes detachable wands